November-December 2003 Newsletter
Do your pants really fit you?
The fact that you have been able to zip your pants up without any difficulty and that the front looks good doesn't necessarily imply that they fit you properly. From a dressmaker's viewpoint, pants are the garments that are the most difficult to fit. It is thus not surprising to see so many ill-fitting pants, but it is a pity because pants are a staple in most women's wardrobe - not to mention men - and because few garments are as flattering and comfortable as well-fitting pants.

A well-fitting front…

…doesn't imply a well-fitting back.

The same back after alteration

Before seeing what proper fit means for pants, let's point out that what follows is valid for trousers and, in large part, slacks, in other words for semi-fitted to loose fitting pants. Many  of the rules are different for jeans, which are technically characterized by the fact they contour abdomen and buttocks. On the other hand, it applies to men's trousers as well as to women's ones.
Good fit means pants are comfortable. Good fit means there are no wrinkles caused by pulling, nor folds from excess fabric. Good fit means pants hang straight. More precisely:

  • The waistband is comfortably snug. There is room to insert two fingers easily into the band. When you sit down, it isn't tight and doesn't pull down in the back.
  • The closure lies closed and smooth.
  • Darts or pleats are straight. Pleats and pockets don't pull open. All lie flat against the body.
  • There is sufficient ease at the full hip so you can pinch 2" to 3" of fabric at the sides.
  • Crotch length is comfortable. Pants don't bind or cut up into the crotch area. They don't hang loosely below the crotch.
  • Trousers hang straight from abdomen and buttocks. They don't cup under these (slacks curve under slightly). There is no bagginess in back. They don't droop or tuck under buttocks.
  • Front thigh contour is not visible.
  • Pants legs are balanced, with fabric evenly distributed around legs.
  • Side seams are straight from waist to hem, without slanting toward the back or the front, and visually bisect the body.
  • Crease is on lengthwise grainline. It falls straight, perpendicular to floor. It is halfway between inseam and side seam. If the style includes pleats, the crease is a continuation of the outside fold of the major pleat.
    •
Side view of properly fitting pants
  • For men, trousers must rest on top of the shoe, producing a slight break. They should be long enough so that when they walk, their socks don't show. Cuffed trousers are hemmed on a straight line, while cuffless ones are hemmed on a slant so that the back extends to top of heel.
  • Women's pants should be as long as possible without breaking on the shoe. So the wider the leg, the longer it must be. The hem may slant slightly lower in back.
Now you probably understand why, when trying on pants, it is necessary to look carefully at them from all around. Use a full-length mirror and a hand mirror, so you can see without twisting and throwing off the natural drape of the fabric. Try them on in the shoes you'll most often wear with them. If you are a man, try them on with a belt or suspenders - on your natural waist and not above or below a paunch - and put your wallet in your pocket. Walk, bend over, sit down. Are you comfortable? Can you move freely?
The fit is what is important, not the size. Over tight pants cannot fit properly, whatever your shape, and there is nothing slimming about any pair of pants that is too tight. Wearing pants one size larger is always preferable to one size smaller.
If you find the perfect fit, look for that same designer when buying your next pair. If you don't find that perfect fit, choose pants that conform to your hips, thighs, and derriere, and have the waist altered. A too low crotch is generally impossible to fix, so buy your pants with the correct distance from waist to crotch.
One last word: Although fit is essential to being well dressed and not just dressed, that's not all. Color and style must also be taken into consideration, but this is another topic, which requires personalized advice.

Happy holidays and best wishes for 2004!

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